In a basic mechanical movement, there are two primary springs: one that delivers power and another one to keep it accurately beating. But others are essential for this overall dance to work. Once complications are added, even more are needed and complex pieces can have dozens of springs. When most people think of a spring, […]
“A striking tribute to an American classic from the heart of the golden age of motorcycling”, is the way Indian describes its all-new Chief Vintage. It not only represents the very best of what Indian has to offer, but it also celebrates the company’s 125th anniversary. With a legacy dating back to 1901 and styling […]
When Louis Vuitton unveiled the original Escale Worldtime at Baselworld in 2014, it caught the watch world by surprise. Not so much because of the technical part, but because of the attitude. Worldtimers were and still are conservative objects, often bound by the nearly 100-year-old Louis Cottier template and a pretty much shared visual. The […]
MeisterSinger’s single-handed watches have the distinct advantage of being immediately recognisable. Although there might be other brands with one-handers, MeisterSinger is the indisputable leader of the pack. With an emphasis on minimalist German design, MeisterSinger’s mono-handed watches offer a more relaxed approach to reading the time, but should not be equated with simple watches, far […]
Love is in the air at Hodinkee HQ as we head into Valentine's Day weekend. To celebrate, we gave each member of the editorial team a Valentine—a theoretical $1,000 to spend on a watch, or watch-related gift for someone else on the team—and let them run wild. This year's picks run the gamut: starting with the more traditional watch picks, then gradually veering off course… all the way to Home Depot. Beneath each selection, you'll find the gift recipient's initial reaction. Happy Valentine's Day
It was hard not to love, or at least feel some tenderness towards the Orient Bambino models (especially the Classic) released by the brand to mark its 75th anniversary. We are tempted again with the M45 F7 Small Second, as Orient Star (established in 1951, part of Seiko Epson since 2017) expands its Classic Collection […]
By way of introduction, here's my favorite watch story. In early 2017, my dad texted a picture and asked, "What do you think of my new watch?" I stared at the picture for a bit as my heart sped up, then I stood and started pacing to try to calm myself down.He owned his own watchmaking company and occasionally helped sort through watch collections. I'd soon learn the watch he'd texted about had come from one of dozens of boxes he'd been helping dispose of, containing the leftover contents of a
If there's any word that exemplifies the essence of luxury, it is "bespoke." With the right connections, means, and sometimes notoriety, you can get a bespoke suit from Savile Row, a pair of shoes from John Lobb, a Range Rover from Overfinch, or, of course, a watch from the Vallée de Joux or Glashütte. Is there anything more exclusive than a "one of one" product made to your exacting specifications and taste? You'll never see another like it "in the wild," which can be both a private pleasure
Last year it was pink; in 2026, it’s blue… Brellum continues to refine its compact, modern chronograph and presents a new version of its Duobox 39 ahead of Valentine’s Day. The Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother-of-Pearl Chronometer 2026 is very much the same as last year’s pink MOP. Still, while the 2025 edition projected warmth, […]
What is a chronometer…? In short, it is a watch that has been officially tested for its precision. And to guarantee the precision of watches, several tools exist, such as the ISO 3159 standard (which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year) and official organisations, such as the Observatoire de Besançon in France, the Glashütte Observatory […]
Armin Strom methodically expands its Dual Time GMT Resonance series. One of the most technically and visually distinctive travel watches on the market was first presented in white gold as the Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. Later came a darker, more contemporary stainless steel Black Edition, which is now back with a new, warmer, […]
Baltic was founded in Paris by Étienne Malec and launched via Kickstarter in 2017 with a captivating duo of 1940s-inspired models. Onwards and upwards, the brand now has over ten collections under its belt, many with an emphasis on mid-20th-century aesthetics, and keeps prices in check by outsourcing movements and assembling them in Besançon, France. […]
Watches with jumping hour complications are all the rage these days, with hot-off-the-press contributions from Audemars Piguet and the recently revived specialist brand, Niton. However, the biggest surprise in the jumping hours corner came from Bremont with the introduction of its Terra Nova Jumping Hour models in 2025. A brand associated with rugged, aviation-themed instrument […]
The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, or COSC, is adding a new level for chronometer certification, introducing an upgraded tier that will better reflect the evolution and precision improvements in modern watches. The new certification comes on the 50th anniversary of its original ISO 3159 standard, with COSC launching a more rigorus standard called "Excellence Chronometer." The new standard won't replace the existing COSC "Certified Chronometer" level, but will instead slot above, se
What We KnowHow do you say goodbye to one of the best super-affordable, super-classic dress watches on the market? According to Baltic, you do it with a bit of flash. The brand is bidding farewell to the MR (short for micro-rotor) model with a sparkly send-off. The two newand last two MR models now feature lab-grown moissanite, which is reminiscent of a diamond but sparkles with a more rainbow-like effect than the clear, high shine of a diamond. Either way, it's a strong look.I'd argue that Ba
Rolex, the top Swiss watch brand by sales, reduced its production in 2025 for the second year in a row while increasing its dominant market share position as the industry continued to make pricier watches at lower volumes, according to Swiss bank Vontobel.The Crown's position as the biggest brand by sales was consolidated over the past two years, as its lead increased to 61% of sales by value for watches priced above CHF 3,000, up from 57% in 2023, according to analysts' estimates at the Swiss
Goliardo Della Balda’s dream of producing high-quality Swiss timepieces at affordable prices materialised with the founding of Delbana watches in 1931. Like many Swiss brands, the quartz crisis took its toll in the 1970s, but the brand was rescued in the mid-1990s and, in 2002, merged with Delma Watch Ltd. to focus on accessible, mid-century-inspired […]
Hitting the road to Fleurier, the discovery of L’Atelier Bernard was not what I expected. Bernard is a rather dated first name – one you rarely hear anymore for young people in Europe’s French-speaking countries. So, when I pushed open the door of their workshop in Fleurier, I was expecting to meet two old Swiss […]
What We KnowFor a small watch, we'll keep it short and sweet here. Grand Seiko has just announced a brand-new Caliber 9F51 quartz movement that powers its smallest 9F-based watch to date. The stainless steel cases of the new SBGX359 "Snowflake" and SBGX361 "Skyflake" watches measure only 33mm by 9.1mm and yet maintain all of the key qualities of Grand Seiko's quintessential quartz caliber.The Caliber 9F51 still has a regulation switch for manual fine-tuning of accuracy during servicing, a Back
Jack Mason is a young micro-brand founded in Dallas, Texas, in 2015, and initially made its name in US retail before making a decisive turn towards enthusiast-focused, direct-to-consumer watchmaking. Recent releases have shown fewer fashion cues, more mechanical credibility, and an emphasis on real-world usability. The Strat-o-Timer GMT has been central to that shift. After […]