Danish microbrand Tangens was founded in 2023, and it did not take long for it to get going. A year later, it introduced the Komposition, a watch that quietly found its audience thanks to its neat, geometric design and a vintage sports watch aesthetic. The Komposition is an easy watch to wear, and so far, […]
Originally intended as a way to thank 500 of the brand’s suppliers and clients who couldn’t afford an MB&F watch, Max Büsser came up with the M.A.D.1, an accessible one-off project. Inevitably, the news leaked, and requests from the watch community escalated into a frenzy, prompting the annual release of M.A.D. Editions via a raffle […]
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Following the enamel-dialled Coquille d’œuf, Dutch brand Lebois & Co expands its Atelier sub-collection with the Heritage Chronograph Bleu-sur-Blanc. The concept remains: take the established Heritage Chronograph format and upgrade it through traditional dial-making techniques. The case is identical to previous Lebois & Co Atelier models. Made of stainless steel, it measures 39mm in diameter, […]
Since its revival in 2008, the Moritz Grossmann manufacture has focused on making watches with traditional Saxon construction and meticulous hand-finishing, exemplifying the idea of Schönstes deutsches Handwerk. The Tremblage, introduced in 2021, quickly became one of its most expressive pieces, showcasing a rare hand-engraving technique applied to German silver dials. Now, for the 200th […]
What We KnowIt's a tale as old as... well, I guess only a few years or as long as the M.A.D.Edition watches have been a thing. People have applied and applied and applied for the raffles for the M.A.D.1, M.A.D.1S, and M.A.D.2 (the affordable and yet surprisingly creative offerings from the subsidiary of MB&F), and yet still haven't been able to get one. That was, in fact, what the M.A.D.1 'Lucky Clover' was meant to fix: it was a watch available to everyone who had entered every raffle to
Hamilton is an American-born Swiss watch brand whose Khaki Field collection draws on its military heritage, featuring a clean, highly legible field watch design inspired by watches made for soldiers and outdoor use. Building on Hamilton’s transition from military supplier to civilian watchmaker, the new Khaki Field King is a slightly more refined, versatile model […]
Norqain’s Wild One high-performance sports watch collection was developed with input from industry maverick Jean-Claude Biver. Launched in 2022, it introduced the brand’s proprietary Norteq material, a carbon fibre composite six times lighter than steel and 3.5 times lighter than titanium. Launching at Watches & Wonders 2026, Norqain unveils the Wild One Skeleton Chrono with […]
Just about a week ago, ArtyA was experimenting with moissanite cases and suspended tourbillons, sticking to its habit of working with unusual materials and bold designs. Now, the brand moves from materials to mechanics with the new Complexity, showcased at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026. The key feature here is what ArtyA calls a world-first […]
Jacob & Co has followed a truly extraordinary trajectory within the Swiss watchmaking landscape, standing apart through the very nature of its creations. The brand is renowned for pieces that are strikingly expressive in their design yet equally arresting for their technical sophistication and complexity. Among the many remarkable creations unveiled by the brand, one […]
The UR-101 is the watch that started it all for indie brand Urwerk. First introduced in 1997 alongside the UR-102, it laid the groundwork for the brand’s signature wandering hours display and its radical approach to time indication. After recently bringing the UR-101 back into the collection with a bold, textured T-Rex edition, Urwerk moves […]
Any conversation about mechanical watches that inspire their owners to go into harm's way must begin and end with Sinn. Sure, the Frankfurt-based brand has a handful of more refined, dare I say "elegant" dress watches, but it is best known for its non-nonsense, ultra-durable, and very Teutonic sports watches. Sinn continues to press its case with three new compelling releases ahead of Watches and Wonders—the 308 "Jagduhr," the 544, and the 936S. Let's take a closer look.The term "tool watch" i
Delbana, founded in 1931 by Goliardo Della Balda, has always delivered classical Swiss watchmaking at approachable prices. The brand launched the stainless steel Della Balda in 2021, later followed by a PVD yellow gold version in 2022, as a tribute to Goliardo and also returned to using mechanical movements. For its 95th anniversary, the brand […]
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Geneva marking 50 years of Raymond Weil and an in-depth conversation with Chief Executive Officer, Elie Bernheim. At a time when much of the market is premiumizing and moving upscale, Raymond Weil is leaning in to its value-driven, Swiss-made heritage, producing approachable-priced timepieces that celebrate half a century of watchmaking and design.Elie Bernheim, CEO of Raymond Weil (Photo credit Maxime Vaux)Bernheim gives us a rundown of the brand
Over the past few years, Qian GuoBiao, an independent watchmaker working in Dongguan, China, known as “the tourbillon doctor“, has established a quite disciplined design language, shaped by his background in the restoration and application of traditional hand-finishing. His earlier watches focused on clarity, proportion and the display of mechanics, incorporating visible balances without resorting […]
What We KnowThe Universal Genève back catalog is vast, varied, and deep. Beyond the better-known Tri-Compax and Polerouter models, there are dozens of uniquely shaped and boldly designed watches that were once part of the mighty brand's product offerings. As part of its relaunch and repositioning as an ultra-luxury marque, Universal Genève is now revisiting that history with a new "Signature Timepieces" collection—a series of time-limited editions that bring historic models back in a more cont
What We KnowUniversal Genève has just introduced its first ladies' collections since the brand's revival, which first began taking shape with Breitling's acquisition of the Maison in 2023. The brand draws on several aspects of its heritage, specifically its designs from the 1950s and 60s, as well as broader influences from those eras across the worlds of watches and fashion. Unpeeling the layers, let's first establish some context in the fashion industry. The designs that began evolving in the
What We KnowUniversal Genève moves forward by looking back, reintroducing the Cabriolet nearly a century after its original 1933 debut (then known as the Ideo). That watch arrived at the height of the Art Deco movement, which is translated to today's release—clean geometry, strong lines, and an emphasis on surface and typography that carries through all five new models. The new lineup is split into two parts: four pieces in the Prêt-à-Porter collection, and a single, more expressive Cabriolet
What We KnowToday marks the much-anticipated, much-discussed official relaunch of Universal Genève, following its acquisition by the Breitling parent, Partners Group, back in 2023. And while we've already seen watches come from this new iteration of the brand, such as a trio of Polerouter Tribute watches and six Tribute to Compax chronographs, those weren't commercial products, with refurbished vintage UG calibers, and felt more like a send-off to the Universal Genève of old.Say hello to the U
What We KnowIf you were to pick one model that defined Universal Genève, I'd argue the Compax is it. For all the love the Polerouter gets (and apologies to my Polerouter-loving friends), the UG name is synonymous with chronographs. Universal Genève was a pioneer in developing its own in-house chronograph movements, particularly during the 1930s to 1950s, and from the Compur, Uni-Compax, Tri-Compax, Medico-Compax, Film Compax, and more. But the Compax itself remained the undefeated icon.The ver