When Urban Jürgensen returned in 2025 under the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, three watches formed the inaugural collection. The UJ-2 introduced a time-only calibre with a double-wheel natural escapement; the UJ-3, an integrated perpetual calendar; while the UJ-1 Tourbillon 250th Anniversary Watch was meant to be the technical masterpiece for the return […]
The resurgence of watchmaking in the United States is real. But not through what it used to be in the past, when American watches were produced in large quantities on an industrial scale. Should we complain? Absolutely not. Thanks to names such as RGM (a veteran compared to the rest), J.N. Shapiro or Keaton Myrick, […]
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Happy Friday, Ballers, and I hope everyone's buckled in for what looks to be some excellent football (and, if you were lucky enough to catch the England v Mexico match, you've already seen some of the best ever). Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Million "Sherpa Cousin" sells on Sunday the 12th, the 18k Omega Constellation ref 2648 sold for €4218 all-in, the Sarpaneva x Moomin went for $8,800, and the Vacheron Constantin 4111 with the 'washed' dial sold for €100,000.StraysIt feels like Seiko
Very few brands can create and machine sapphire like Hublot does, and it is a claim that proves itself time and again. It was in 2016 that Hublot first unveiled its sapphire Big Bang, followed by colourful interpretations, including the striking orange version introduced in 2021, which turned many heads. These transparent creations have since […]
While the Luminor and Radiomir are the two most emblematic collections of Panerai, both solidly rooted in the brand’s heritage and modelled after historical models, there’s a third collection that has increased its presence in recent years: the Submersible. The brand’s vision of a proper dive watch, equipped with all the necessary features you’ll need […]
The TAG Heuer Monaco is a watch with a rather interesting history, as we explored in this Evergreen article. The watch, introduced in 1969, was a true vessel for innovation at Heuer, not only due to its daring square design but also the integration within this case of one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements, […]
Norqain has never been afraid to inject colour and fun into its robust sports watches. The new Freedom GMT Enjoy Life “Holiday” is one of the brand’s most playful creations. Based on the Freedom GMT and its true GMT movement made by Kenissi, this new 500-piece edition is a colourful celebration of holidays, adventures, and […]
In 2020, watches became a real escape for a lot of us. Instagram, Facebook groups, even Clubhouse (who remembers that?) were thriving, and for me, watches had become more than a 9-5 as I fell deeper into those communities. It's where I first came across a guy on Facebook talking about a watch he'd designed that was 'inspired by a watermelon'. Every time it appeared, the comments filled with feedback as he gauged whether people were actually interested.They were. And now, six years later, that
Face an inconvenient truth about dive watches. Even with their awesome water-resistance ratings and overengineered cases, most will never explore the bottom of the sea. Their rotating bezels are far more likely to time pasta, something in the oven or even a parking meter. French brand MAT Watches (Mer-Air-Terre) clearly understands this and, with a […]
What We KnowThis week, Vacheron Constantin added two new 34.5mm Overseas models to the collection. There's a new version in steel with a red dial and a tone-on-tone version in 18k pink gold with a matching gold-toned dial. No, these new additions aren't the most groundbreaking introductions from Vacheron in recent times, but they are quite attractive and do well to flesh out the brand's small collection of mechanical mid-sized Overseas models.The distinct visual cues of the Overseas are all pr
Many of the overtly vintage design cues of Montblanc’s 1858 collection are inspired by Minerva’s military watches from the 1930s, renowned for their precision and legibility in extreme conditions. Promoted as rugged, reliable companions for mountaineering and outdoor adventures, the 1858 Geosphere combines its retro looks with a worldtimer featuring two rotating globes depicting the […]
While the sleek, ultra-thin, record-breaking Octo Finissimo is now the first collection that springs to mind when you mention Bulgari, there are older, equally provocative references like the Bulgari Aluminium. Unveiled in 1998, the Bulgari Aluminium surprised audiences with its radical combination of lightweight aluminium and rubber. With its double Bulgari signature on the black […]
Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Originally founded as a guild for working watchmakers, these days, it's a not-for-profit organization "dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education", and is highly respected by both watch hobbyists and the broader industry for its efforts in this regard.In 2016, HSNY launched its Traveling Education program, which has become
If you wear a mechanical watch every day, you have probably had the thought at least once. It would be nice to track your workouts, sleep, and daily activity without leaving your favourite mechanical watch at home. After all, that trusty field watch has been with you on hikes, road trips, and just about every […]
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Wetzlar, Germany, home of the legendary camera and lens maker, Leica. Of course, Leica isn't just an optics company. Since 2015, it's been on a new mission to create watches as well, a project initiated by Leica's controlling shareholder, Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, who is not only passionate about cameras and photography, but also timepieces. Henrik Ekdahl wearing a Leica watch and using a Leica camera in 1996 (left) during his first stint with the bra
Founded in 1993 by the 11th Duke of Richmond, the Goodwood Festival of Speed has grown into one of motorsport’s most iconic celebrations. In 2025, TAG Heuer returned as Official Timing Partner of the event and will do so again this year, for the 2026 edition (July 9th – July 12th). The brand will be […]
Any good tailor has a house style, or a few of them. You generally don't want a tailor who says they can do everything—Neapolitan, English, sack suit—as they rarely do it all that well. Variations on a theme are key to a tailor who knows how to cover the right amount of ground and deliver a good result. The house style, as it were, for The Armoury's recently launched house brand, Temporal Works, is a Patek Philippe 565 for the modern era. And if the 565 and a Hamilton Khaki field watch had a b
The 02Series was Studio Underd0g’s “difficult second album”. Introduced in 2023 after the success of the brand’s colourful chronographs, it took a different route, reinterpreting the classic field watch through the British brand’s typically playful lens. Inspired by a theoretical 1945 Ministry of Defence brief and the famous Dirty Dozen watches, the collection paired compact […]
The Divers Date is one of the most recognisable watches in the modern Oris collection, tracing its design inspiration back to the brand’s first dive-ready watch of 1965. For several years, this retro look was popularised by the Divers Sixty-Five, introduced in 2015 and offered in countless colours, materials and configurations. In 2024, however, Oris thoroughly […]